Historic Garments of King Kamehameha’s Hawaiʻi and Chief of War

Historic Garments of King Kamehameha I’s Era: War Dress and Ceremonial Clothing in Hawaiian History and Chief of War

When viewers watch the new Apple TV+ series Chief of War, starring Jason Momoa as Kaʻiana and set in the late 18th century during the unification of the Hawaiian Islands, they are struck by the richness of the traditional Hawaiian garments worn on screen. These costumes, carefully researched and recreated, reflect the artistry, symbolism, and cultural depth of clothing from King Kamehameha I’s era.

Far from being simple attire, garments such as ahuʻula (feather cloaks), malo (loincloths), kihei (shawls), and lei hulu (feathered adornments) represented not only clothing but also rank, spirituality, and power. War dress, ceremonial garments, and daily wear all told stories about the people who wore them and the society they lived in.

This article explores what historic Hawaiian garments were made from, their cultural meaning, and how these designs are represented in Chief of War.

Everyday Garments: Kapa and Malo

Kapa Cloth

The foundation of Hawaiian clothing was kapa, a cloth made from the inner bark of the wauke (paper mulberry) plant. Women—who were the primary kapa makers—harvested and beat the fibers into sheets using carved wooden beaters called hohoa and anvils called kua kuku.

Kapa was versatile: it could be made thin and soft for garments or thick and layered for bedding. Natural dyes from plants like ʻukiʻuki (blue), ʻalaea clay (red), or ʻolena (turmeric yellow) were used to color the cloth. Intricate geometric designs were applied with bamboo stamps (ʻohe kapala).

Malo and Paʻū

• Malo: Men traditionally wore a malo, or loincloth, made of kapa or woven fiber. This simple garment was worn daily and could also be decorated for ceremonial use.
• Paʻū: Women wore a paʻū, a skirt-like garment also crafted from kapa, often brightly dyed and stamped with patterns.

Though humble compared to ceremonial feather adornments, kapa garments were the backbone of Hawaiian dress and daily life.

Ceremonial Garments: Featherwork as Royal Regalia

Hawaiian society in the Kamehameha era placed immense cultural value on feathers, considered sacred symbols of mana (spiritual power). Featherwork garments were painstakingly created by highly skilled artisans (kālai hulu manu), who plucked tiny feathers from native birds without killing them, ensuring sustainability and spiritual respect.

ʻAhuʻula (Feather Cloaks)

The most iconic garments of Hawaiian royalty were the ʻahuʻula, long capes or cloaks made of thousands of feathers carefully netted into an olonā (strong fiber) backing.

• Symbolism: Each cloak was unique, with patterns often in red, yellow, or black—the sacred colors of aliʻi (chiefs). Red and yellow feathers, from birds like the ʻōʻō and mamo, were especially prized.
• Rank and Power: These garments were worn exclusively by high-ranking chiefs. Kamehameha I himself is famously depicted in a red and yellow cloak and feathered helmet.

Mahiole (Feather Helmets)

The mahiole, or feathered helmet, was another emblem of chiefly status. Its shape resembled crested helmets of Polynesian warriors, with arcs or domes covered in vibrant feather patterns.

• Worn during battle or ceremony, mahiole distinguished leaders and conveyed spiritual protection.
• They also served as visible markers of hierarchy on the battlefield, uniting warriors under the sight of their aliʻi.

Lei Hulu (Feather Adornments)

Feather leis were worn around the head or neck, often accompanying cloaks and helmets. Like ʻahuʻula, they symbolized prestige and spiritual strength, reserved for aliʻi and sacred rituals.

War Dress in the Kamehameha Era

Hawaiian warfare in the late 18th century involved not just strategy and weapons but also ceremonial display of power through clothing.

Components of War Dress

1. Malo and Girdles: Warriors typically wore malo, sometimes with protective girdles or kapa coverings.
2. Lei and Helmets: High-ranking chiefs donned mahiole helmets and feathered adornments, which acted as both physical identifiers and spiritual protection.
3. Cloaks: While heavy cloaks were not worn in combat, chiefs might display them in the lead-up to battle or in ceremonial appearances before warriors.

Psychological Impact

Clothing and adornments projected mana on the battlefield. A warrior arrayed under a chief wearing a mahiole and ʻahuʻula carried a sense of divine backing, instilling confidence and fear.

Ceremonial Context: Clothing as Sacred Expression

In Hawaiian culture, clothing was more than functional—it was spiritual. Aliʻi garments embodied kapu (sacred restrictions) and mana. To wear a cloak or helmet was not only to demonstrate political authority but to channel divine power.

Special garments were worn for:

• Religious ceremonies at heiau (temples).
• Makainana (commoner) rituals, though with simpler kapa attire.
• Coronations and investitures of high chiefs.
• Diplomatic encounters, where visual displays of featherwork communicated strength.

Kamehameha I used such displays effectively during his campaigns to unite the islands, reinforcing his right to rule through both military power and ceremonial imagery.

Chief of War: Garments on Screen

Apple TV+’s Chief of War brings Hawaiian history to global audiences, and its attention to authentic clothing plays a key role.

• Jason Momoa’s Character: Kaʻiana, portrayed by Momoa, is often depicted in garments combining everyday malo with richly detailed ceremonial cloaks or lei hulu, illustrating his dual role as warrior and aliʻi.
• Warrior Dress: Extras in the series wear historically inspired malo and kapa wraps, showcasing the simplicity of common warriors compared to the regalia of chiefs.
• Feathered Regalia: Recreated ʻahuʻula and mahiole are highlighted in ceremonial scenes, grounding the narrative in historical symbolism.

Costume designers consulted with Hawaiian historians, artisans, and cultural practitioners to ensure authenticity—paying homage to Native Hawaiian traditions while dramatizing them for television.

Materials and Sustainability

Traditional Hawaiian clothing materials emphasized connection to the land and respect for nature:

• Olonā Fiber: Extremely durable and used as the netting base for feather cloaks.
• Feathers: Carefully harvested from native birds, with cultural protocols ensuring balance between use and preservation.
• Plant Dyes: Non-toxic dyes derived from native plants preserved both color and cultural meaning.

These practices illustrate how Hawaiians integrated environmental stewardship into daily and ceremonial life—an ethos still remembered in the phrase mālama ʻāina (to care for the land).

The Legacy of Hawaiian Garments

Today, surviving feather cloaks and helmets—many housed in the Bishop Museum in Honolulu and international institutions—remain treasures of Hawaiian culture.

They are more than artifacts; they are living symbols of identity. Contemporary Hawaiian artists and cultural practitioners continue to study and revive kapa-making and featherwork, ensuring that these traditions endure for future generations.

Through Chief of War, audiences worldwide are introduced to this rich visual heritage, sparking renewed appreciation for the artistry and cultural power embedded in Hawaiian garments.

Final Thoughts

The garments of King Kamehameha I’s era were not mere clothing but expressions of mana, hierarchy, and cultural identity. From the feather cloaks of aliʻi to the kapa malo of everyday warriors, these garments told stories of who people were, what they believed, and how they fought for and celebrated their place in society.

By weaving historical accuracy with dramatic storytelling, Chief of War offers a window into this world, reminding us that Hawaiian clothing was—and remains—a profound statement of resilience, artistry, and connection to the divine.

For visitors to Hawaiʻi today, exploring Hawaiian garments through museums, cultural centers, or even onscreen depictions is a chance to engage with history that still shapes island identity.