About the Traditional Hawaiian Garments in Chief of War

Traditional Hawaiian Garments in Chief of War: A Cultural and Visual Triumph

When Chief of War debuted on Apple TV+ in 2025, it was clear this wasn’t just another historical drama—it was a cultural showcase. Co-created by Jason Momoa and Thomas Paʻa Sibbett, the series plunges audiences into the late 18th century during Hawaiʻi’s unification wars. Beyond the sweeping battle scenes and political intrigue, one of the show’s standout achievements is its meticulous recreation of traditional Hawaiian garments.

The costumes in Chief of War are more than visual ornament—they are living history, telling stories of rank, status, and the artistry of Native Hawaiian culture. From shimmering feather capes to barkcloth garments dyed in earth tones, the wardrobe immerses viewers in a world that honors Hawaiʻi’s past while educating a global audience.

The Role of Clothing in Hawaiian Society

In pre-contact Hawaiʻi, clothing was a powerful visual language. Garments indicated not only a person’s gender and occupation, but also their rank in the aliʻi (chiefly) system. Chiefs and warriors wore elaborate regalia that could take years to craft, while commoners dressed in simpler, functional attire suited for labor, fishing, and farming.

Hawaiian clothing was also deeply tied to environment and resources. Skilled artisans crafted garments from plants, feathers, and fibers found in the islands—turning natural materials into symbols of authority and beauty.

Garments Featured in Chief of War

Ahuʻula – Feather Capes and Cloaks

One of the most striking elements in the series is the ahuʻula, the feather cloak worn by high-ranking aliʻi and warriors. These capes were painstakingly made from thousands of small feathers from native birds such as the ʻiʻiwi (scarlet honeycreeper) and ʻōʻō (black and yellow plumage).

In Chief of War, ahuʻula are seen in ceremonial gatherings, battle preparations, and key moments of negotiation—symbolizing power, prestige, and divine protection. Historically, these garments were so valuable that they could be passed down for generations, and their color patterns often carried political or genealogical significance.

Malo – The Hawaiian Loincloth

For male characters, especially warriors and chiefs, the malo is a staple garment. Worn around the waist and between the legs, the malo was practical for combat and labor while still allowing for symbolic decoration.

In the series, malo vary from plain, undyed kapa for common warriors to finely patterned and dyed versions for leaders, often paired with capes or belts to indicate status. The attention to detail here is historically accurate—chiefs could own several malo, each reserved for specific occasions.

Kīhei – Shoulder Wraps

The kīhei, a rectangular shawl worn over one shoulder, appears throughout the show on both men and women. Traditionally made from kapa (barkcloth), kīhei could be plain or patterned with geometric designs created through natural dyes.

In Chief of War, kīhei are often seen on advisors, navigators, and spiritual leaders, underscoring their versatility as both ceremonial and everyday garments.

Kapa – Barkcloth Garments

Kapa was the foundation of Hawaiian clothing before Western contact. Made from the bark of the wauke (paper mulberry) plant, kapa was pounded, softened, and dyed with colors derived from native plants and minerals.

The costume department of Chief of War worked with Hawaiian kapa practitioners to ensure authenticity in texture, drape, and dye work. Viewers will notice earthy reds, deep yellows, and natural browns—tones historically favored in the late 18th century.

Lei Hulu – Feather Leis

While flower leis are globally associated with Hawaiʻi today, feather leis (lei hulu) were an important adornment for aliʻi. In Chief of War, lei hulu appear as neckpieces and headbands during high-ranking ceremonies, adding both beauty and cultural depth to the scenes.

These pieces required intricate craftsmanship, sewing delicate feathers onto a fiber cord base—sometimes in repeating color patterns representing family lines or political alliances.

Women’s Garments

For female characters like Queen Ka‘ahumanu (played by Luciane Buchanan), clothing communicates both grace and authority. Women’s attire in the series often consists of long kapa paʻū (skirts) paired with kīhei or lei adornments. Chiefs’ wives and high-ranking women wear more elaborately dyed and decorated garments, while commoners are dressed in simpler, undyed kapa.

Cultural Authenticity Behind the Wardrobe

The creators of Chief of War enlisted Native Hawaiian cultural advisors, kapa makers, and featherwork artists to ensure that the clothing accurately represented the era. This meant:

• Consulting with museums such as Bishop Museum, which houses some of the few surviving 18th- and 19th-century Hawaiian garments.
• Working with contemporary artisans to recreate kapa beating, natural dyeing, and feather cape construction.
• Ensuring correct protocol—certain garments, like specific patterns of ahuʻula, could only be worn by aliʻi of appropriate rank.

This level of authenticity is rare in Hollywood productions about Polynesia, and it is part of why Chief of War has been praised by cultural experts.

Symbolism in the Show’s Costume Design

Costume choices in Chief of War are intentional storytelling devices:

• Bright red and yellow feathers → reserved for the highest chiefs, symbolizing sacred authority.
• Earth-toned kapa → linked to common warriors and farmers, grounding them in the land.
• Contrasting garment textures → used to emphasize the social and political divides between characters.

Even in battle scenes, garments are not merely functional; they are a visual representation of the alliances, rivalries, and hierarchies shaping the Hawaiian islands during unification.

Why the Clothing in Chief of War Matters

For Hawaiian viewers, seeing their ancestors’ clothing depicted with accuracy is an act of cultural restoration. For international audiences, it’s a chance to learn that Hawaiian clothing was far more complex and symbolic than the modern-day aloha shirt or grass skirt stereotype.

The garments in Chief of War remind us that Hawaiian society was—and is—rich with artistry, environmental knowledge, and a deep sense of identity expressed through what people wore.

Further Learning and Resources

If Chief of War has sparked your interest in traditional Hawaiian clothing, consider exploring these resources:

• Bishop Museum Featherwork Collection
• Kapa Making at Hawaiian Mission Houses
• Hawaiʻi State Foundation on Culture and the Arts

These organizations offer exhibitions, workshops, and educational materials that bring Hawaiian garment traditions to life.

Final Word:
In Chief of War, traditional Hawaiian garments are not just costumes—they are characters in their own right. They carry the weight of centuries, the skill of artisans, and the pride of a culture that has endured. By honoring these traditions on screen, the show bridges past and present, ensuring that the artistry of Hawaiian clothing continues to inspire and educate for generations to come.